How to Waterproof Hiking Boots (2026)

How you waterproof a boot depends on two things: what the outside is made of, and whether there is a waterproof membrane inside. Smooth leather, nubuck or suede, and fabric mesh each take a different product, and the boot maker's own care page decides whether wax is allowed.

GORE-TEX's footwear advice and at least one big boot maker disagree on that point, so it is worth reading both before you buy.

How we chose: we did not test these treatments. We read the GORE-TEX, LOWA, Nikwax, GEAR AID and Atsko care pages and the listings, and kept only products sold by Amazon.com and in stock on September 29, 2026.

Seven boot treatments by material

Prices are Amazon's, as of the time shown, and subject to change. Details

Material limits come from Nikwax's pages for Fabric & Leather Proof and Waterproofing Wax for Leather, GEAR AID's boot guide and Atsko's Sno-Seal instructions.

What GORE-TEX says, and where a boot maker differs

GORE-TEX's footwear care page is specific:

• Remove the laces and insoles, brush off loose dirt, then clean with lukewarm water and a little liquid detergent. For leather, check the boot maker's instructions.
• No bleach, and no washing machine.
• Dry naturally at moderate temperatures, avoid direct heat, and do not leave boots wet too long. Convection boot dryers work well.
• "Once water no longer beads and runs off, re-apply a durable water repellent (DWR)," using "a water-based restorative, available as a pump-spray."
• "Don't use waterproofing waxes or greases, as they can affect your footwear's breathability."

LOWA, a boot maker that sells GORE-TEX-lined boots, says something different on its care page. It tells owners to rub in a wax cream or wax emulsion with a soft brush, and says: "This is also essential for shoes with a GORE-TEX membrane." LOWA does agree about grease: "Do not use pure oils or greases," because they close the leather's pores and the boot loses stability and breathability.

So the rule that settles it is your boot maker's own care page. If it calls for a wax cream, use theirs or a water-based wax sold for membrane boots. If it says nothing, follow GORE-TEX and use a water-based spray.

Step one for every boot: clean it

A dirty boot soaks up water even when the treatment is fine. Nikwax says footwear "could be soaking up water just because it is dirty," and that cleaning a fairly new or recently treated boot with its Footwear Cleaning Gel will revive the repellency on its own.

GEAR AID says the same with its own cleaner and suggests a gentle, low-suds soap. Neither brand wants household detergent: Nikwax says conventional detergents leave "a thin water-absorbent film" on the material.

Then decide by material.

Smooth, full-grain leather

This is the only surface where wax belongs, and only if your boot maker allows it.

Nikwax Waterproofing Wax for Leather is water based. Nikwax's directions: rub it into clean leather with the sponge or your fingers, paying attention to seams, remove the excess with a damp cloth after 2 minutes and buff. It is water-repellent immediately, but Nikwax says to let it dry naturally before use. Light or colored leather may darken, so test a hidden spot first.

GEAR AID Revivex Leather Water Repellent is a gel that "soaks into fabric and also acts like a conditioner," per the listing. GEAR AID lists it for full-grain leather and GORE-TEX lined leather boots, says to apply it liberally where the boot bends, and to air dry overnight with newspaper inside.

Nubuck, suede and fabric boots

Many lightweight hiking boots mix suede or nubuck panels with fabric mesh. These take a spray, not a wax.

Nikwax Fabric & Leather Proof goes on clean, wet boots from 6 inches. Nikwax says to make sure it gets into the seams, wipe off the excess after 2 minutes and let the boots dry naturally; the repellency "develops on air drying." It is recommended for GORE-TEX, eVent and BDRY, per the listing.

Nikwax Nubuck & Suede Proof is the version for all-nubuck boots, and Nikwax says it keeps the texture. It warns that sheepskin may change color.

GEAR AID Revivex Suede and Fabric Water Repellent is listed for suede, nubuck, canvas, fabric and GORE-TEX footwear. Apply it liberally and air dry overnight, per GEAR AID's boot guide.

Why not wax? LOWA says the surface of nubuck and suede "becomes smoother, shinier and also darker when the wax is applied," Nikwax says its wax is not for nubuck or suede, and Atsko says Sno-Seal will "darken and flatten the nap."

What about silicone sprays and old-school beeswax?

Read the can. Sof Sole's silicone spray, for example, says on its listing that it is "not recommended for breathable technical fibers (such as gore tex)," because silicone could discolor or diminish performance.

Traditional beeswax like Atsko Sno-Seal belongs on leather boots with no membrane. Atsko's instructions say to preheat clean, dry boots to around 120°F, rub the wax in until the leather stays shiny, and expect it to darken the leather permanently. That goes against GORE-TEX's no-wax advice, so keep it for unlined leather work or pack boots.

Drying boots without ruining them

Heat is the enemy of wet leather. GORE-TEX says avoid direct heat and use a convection boot dryer if you want to speed things up. LOWA says never leave boots "in the sun, in the bathroom, by the radiator, near the oven or in a hot car," because wet leather can "burn" and crack. Stuff them with newspaper, as GEAR AID suggests, and let them dry at room temperature.

How often to re-treat

LOWA is the only source here that gives a number. It says a proofing spray reaches full effect after 24 hours and "after about three weeks, the effect diminishes," so re-treat regularly and before each tour.

The others go by the boot: GORE-TEX says re-apply when water "no longer beads and runs off," Nikwax says to re-proof "once the footwear has been thoroughly worn," and GEAR AID says boots need "regular re-proofing." Run a wet hand over the toe after each trip; if the leather or fabric darkens instead of beading, clean and re-treat.

None of the makers prints how many pairs a bottle treats, so the repeat cost depends on how often your boots get wet and dirty.

Related: GEAR AID vs Nikwax compares both brands' boot, jacket and down care, and our repair guide covers Tenacious Tape, which GEAR AID lists for non-oiled leather.

Frequently Asked Questions

Do waterproof GORE-TEX boots need waterproofing at all?

The lining stays waterproof, but the outside still needs a repellent. LOWA calls the idea that GORE-TEX shoes need no care "a big myth": the membrane is inside, and the upper must be "regularly cleaned, cared for and waterproofed in accordance with its upper materials."

Can I put boots in the washing machine?

Not GORE-TEX boots: its footwear page says "don't wash in the washing machine." Clean by hand with lukewarm water and a brush.

Can I use rain jacket spray on my boots?

Use a footwear product. Nikwax sells separate footwear proofers designed not to soften leather, and its jacket spray is not listed for boots. Our DWR spray guide covers the jacket side.

Should I wash the boot lining?

LOWA says the GORE-TEX lining "will also appreciate a wash with a little shoe cleaner and a soft brush from time to time."

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WildProofLab is a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for sites to earn advertising fees by advertising and linking to Amazon.com. Care directions and reapplication advice are the makers' own.